Mobile, Alabama
Season IV - Chapter 1
“Mardi Gras to Maine”
“Moh-Bill, Mardi Gras, and the Shamrock Krewe!”
It is with great anticipation that we crossed the Bama State Line. “We are here, Sweet Home Alabama!” John has had a soft spot for Moon Pies (Banana especially) since we met, not so much for their long shelf life and waxy texture, but for the back story told to him years ago...
“O’Boyle, once in your life, get yourself down to Mobile, Alabama and catch a Moon Pie during Mardi Gras.” That was a supervisors plea that we hope to fulfill.
We most certainly not here for Moon Pies, but to experience Mardi Gras, the Carnival’s festivities that culminate on Fat Tuesday during our stay here in Alabama and Louisiana. Mobile is the birthplace of the celebration in America and notably refuses to surrender the title to the Big Easy, so it is here that we begin.
Fairhope, Alabama is our home having had our reservation at Meaher State Park inconveniently lost or transferred. Inconvenient, but highly fortunate as we were positioned dead center to all of the activity that we were looking forward to. A short drive from Fairhope Landing lies the downtown , it’s French Creole architecture is reminiscent of Bourbon Street. We split a hand thrown pizza at Panini Pete’s (recommended) and stroll the First Friday Art Walk.
The first of several rides in the area took us back to the Gulf Shores and Flora-Bama. This place is better suited to Parrot Heads than our helmeted heads, so we ride on. Besides, we have a time table to meet... Fort Meyer Ferry to Dauphin Island departs at 11:45. Miss it, and we won’t see another until 1:30.
John singing, “Don’t Pay the Ferryman till he gets you to the other side...” 🎵🎶🎵 makes me smile for the short distance to the landing. Not surprisingly, the ferryman in this case is a woman name Christie who demanded payment before we board. 😃 We love ferry rides...
Is it movement with both feet down?
Is it flying over water on a bike?
The anticipation of what’s to come?
Or all of the above?!
You have to love a ferry!
We unload onto Dauphin Island just in time for a lunch on a parapet at Fort Gaines. This fort exhibits the anchor of the USS Hartford from which Admiral David Farragut gave the (historic) command “Damn the Torpedos - Full speed ahead!” during the Battle of Mobile Bay. Feeling satisfied and feeding off the statement John decrees: “Damn the Moon Pies - full speed ahead... “ to Bayou La Batre of course!
A ferry, now a bridge and causeway, transports us to the “Seafood Capitol of Alabama,” made famous by Forrest Gump’s attempt to honor Bubba (Buford) Blue’s dream of being a “Shrimpin’ Boat Capt’n.” Trawlers, fishing boats, and processing equipment line the narrow canal out to the bay. We see no sign of Mr. Gump or Mr. Hanks for that matter and twilight approaches so we fuel up and complete the loop through Mobile.
As sun sets on the Mobile Skyline it reminds us why we are here. Lights cast on the buildings alternate between purple, green, and gold and look positively royal. It becomes the Crown Jewel of our day! One last treat lies ahead. A tunnel is the final piece of todays motorcycle trinity: The Bankhead Tunnel, built in sections and sunk the 40 feet below the surface of Mobile Bay is truly a marvel to ride through!
On Monday morning, we point the motorbikes towards the 20th state of the union... Mississippi for a little “Home Town” feel. Why not? Laurel, Mississippi has been the locale for the HGTV show of the same name since 2016. This hamlet is all one would expect; quiet, friendly, and small. Our walk around the town took all of 45 minutes and ended at the Cafe’ La Fluer for lunch. The food was good, but the beignets were GREAT! 😋 The out and back ended up being a 300 miles day and well worth the effort.
Our plans for Mardi Gras parades were postponed by inclement weather, but not even rain can dampen a Gator hike. With several trails bordering Mobile Bay so we venture out in search of these prehistoric reptiles. We didn’t mind the rain, but apparently the gators do. No alligators to be found... yet. The views across the bay are compensation enough for our outing. This area offers more than gumbo and beads, parades and pies (or King Cakes for that matter), it offers visitors a glimpse of generations of change in America; both it’s conflicts and it’s promise.
Tomorrow we load for Louisiana, but tonight we enjoy...
“Moh-Bill, Mardi Gras, and the Shamrock Krewe!”
Travel safe and we will see you out on the road!
John and Caroline 🍀
Points of interest:
1. Fairhope and the downtown have so much to offer including the First Friday Night Art Walk as well as frequent local activities. There are several restaurants and shopping options.
2. Find at least one of the numerous Mardi Gras Parades in the Gulf Shores area during the month of February.
3. Drive to the Gulf Shores and Orange Beach. The locals recommend getting a meal while in “Flora-Bama” or visiting the wonderful beaches when the weather is warm.
4. Hike Village Point Park Trail and the Gator Boardwalk in Daphne. Both are short hikes, well marked, and seeing a gator is possible.
5. Drive to Fort Morgan and take the ferry to Dauphin Island. Be sure to include a visit to Fort Gaines known for the saying “Damn the Torpedoes... Full Speed Ahead!” We continued our ride out to the western tip of Dauphin Island to watch the locals fish and walk along the quiet beach.
Scenic Motorcycle Routes Mobile, Alabama:
1. The Fort Morgan Loop: Take Highway 98 to Gulf Shores and then west to Fort Morgan. We hopped on to the Fort Morgan Ferry to Dauphin Island and then over the Causeway to Bayou La Batre., finishing our day riding through Mobile.
2. What motorcyclist doesn’t like a tunnel or two. We rode through both tunnels in Mobile: The George Wallace Tunnel and the Bankhead Tunnel. Certainly the history and function of the Bankhead Tunnel is worth a quick read in the manner it was built.
3. Our third ride took us north to Laurel, Mississippi as this was the closest we would be to “Hometown” on our travels. It was certainly worth the 136 miles. Be sure and stop in at Cafe La Fluer for lunch and a beignet.
Fairhope Landing RV Park:
RV Location for Mobile, Alabama:
Fairhope Landing
10050 RV There Yet Lane*
Fairhope, Alabama 36532
We so enjoyed our stay at this location. The park was brand new and only open for 1 month. We used the club house, pool table, and enjoyed the staff. Our weather in February did not allow for swimming.
*Be sure and call ahead for directions as this was a new RV Park and we were unable to locate it on the GPS or Google Maps. Take the exit off of I-10 for Highway 181 and travel approximately 9 miles. The park will be on the left.
And finally, John and I are trying our hand at sharing our story on YouTube! We hope you enjoy the content and thank you all for following along. 😊
